I landed in New Orleans on a hot muggy Friday afternoon, and as I waited for my luggage, I immediately settled into the local lifestyle of what’s known as the Big Easy. Like the heavy weight of humidity that drapes over New Orleans, that same weight draped over me. I slowed down, chilled out, and took a seat as I watched the iconic jazz musicians welcome me with a performance on a permanent stage in the center of baggage claim. Somehow, having your luggage delayed for thirty minutes didn’t seem as stressful.

With a reframed mindset, a relaxed vibe, and my luggage in tow, I practiced my first pro tip: take a taxi from the airport. Uber pricing was estimating $60 for a ride to the French Quarter. A good old-fashioned taxi is a flat rate of $36 and mine even came with a friendly driver that spoke English in a Creole accent but happened to be from Honduras (which his Spanish accent reflected). Instead of being taken straight to my hotel, I followed pro tip number two and went straight to Queen Trini Lisa, a restaurant that serves Trinbagonian Island soul food. Queen Trini’s is the perfect pit stop since it’s halfway to the French Quarter but still away from the loud, boisterous crowds. A perfect stop to recharge before heading to the heart of it all. Nestled amongst houses and by a local school, you pass neighbors and school kids on the way to the dining area set up in what used to be an old house. BBQ jerk chicken, fried fish, and plantains soon appeared in front of me. I’m only here once, I thought as I added on the island stir fry cabbage and Caribbean-style spinach, washing it all down with hibiscus tea. It was hour one of being in New Orleans and my loose airport pants were already starting to tighten. I was not ready for the feasts I was about to encounter on every corner.

Recharged, I dropped my bags off at the Canopy, a charming boutique hotel, and then started my walking adventure. I crossed the two blocks over to the start of Bourbon Street. The mouth of the street is unassuming and usually blocked by trucks making deliveries to the massive hotel chains that tower over the tiny street. Once you make your way in, you realize the alley opens up to block after block of bars, stages, restaurants, and more bars. It was 2 p.m. on a Friday, and I was at the start of the weekend. I felt the street humming with excitement of the night to come and the tourists it would attract. I planned to meet up with a group of friends in town but also wanted to do some solo wandering, so I took this time to acquaint myself with the area. Some bars blared club bangers with bass levels that shook the wooden frames of the old buildings. I heard Bad Bunny as well as the expected jazz. Each spot had a different vibe, a different theme, and a different specialty cocktail. The streets that branched off Bourbon Street were lined with more spaced-out bars, but just as busy. The further I walked up the street, the quieter it got until the bars were a distant roar and I could admire the historic architecture. I realized then that New Orleans had this attitude that it gives you exactly what you want. I was looking for a fruity drink in a mellow bar and found exactly that at Port Of Call, the last bar at the end of the street.

Inside, I ordered a Monsoon in a to-go cup. I told the bartender I was waiting for my friends. He gave me half an order of the drink and swapped out the 151 liquor for something lighter. Even with the modifications, the drink was dangerously delicious and strong. The bartender knew what I could handle from a mile away. That was a constant theme in the area: vigilant no-nonsense bartenders who took pride in their cocktails and the safety of their venue. This is a 24-hour bar type of town so when on my last night I met some new friends at a vampire speakeasy bar and we wandered over to Frenchman Street looking for the next party at 3 a.m., no one batted an eye. No one wants to ruin your buzz, everyone wants to have a good time in the Big Easy.

When my friends arrived, we started walking toward the famous party scene and stopped at Fritzel’s, a jazz club that featured amazing ensembles each day and night. It was here that I stumbled upon an underground bar in the back patio. I saw a man with long dark hair mumble to a group who handed something over to him. He led them to what I thought was a locked utility closet. Instead, he opened up to reveal a staircase into darkness, and as the group disappeared, he swiftly locked the door behind them and went back to his seat. I coyly wandered over and asked where the group went and if I could go too. The man dressed in all black with red irises said I needed an invitation and a password and the place I was trying to get into was a vampire bar.

This was the magic of New Orleans, there is a process and procedure, but if you follow the rules, there isn’t any gatekeeping. I ended up finding an invitation to the New Orleans Vampire Cafe. I won’t ruin the mystique, but once you get inside, you realize the secrecy and the process filters the clientele, and you end up with a collection of interesting characters to meet. It was truly a diverse crowd as I met an Australian accountant, a Jamaican-Canadian doctor, and a journalist from Maine. The drink menu included shots served in little potion bottles and lots of absinthe.

Coincidentally, I found another speakeasy that snaked down a very narrow corridor between two buildings. I think calling it an alley would be gracious in all honesty. This led to The Dungeon. A place where video and photos are banned and the two-story structure is decorated with bondage, BDSM, and lots of naked women. My friend and I discussed the lack of equality in the decorations since we felt we were entitled to an equal amount of naked men, but overall, the dive bar attracted a large crowd that most of the time I was shoulder-to-shoulder with one stranger or another.

The last hidden bar was The Saint. It’s about a ten-minute Uber ride from all the bars but it’s an after-hours club, so by 2 a.m., everyone that is over loud club music is headed to the more mellow hangout. I was warned so I must warn you, the bouncer is a dick. I think that’s part of the job of keeping inebriated people out while not pissing off their neighbors since the spot is in a more residential area. Inside, a DJ plays a unique mix of house music that isn’t mainstream or familiar but still makes you want to muster all the energy you have left to dance.

Beyond bars, there was music, tours about the LGBT history of the city as well as the haunted past. You can visit a local cemetery and check out the impressive mausoleums where people like Anne Rice are buried. I strolled through the city’s art museum garden exhibits and interactive installations. I visited the only cigar lounge that hand rolls their own cigars in the city, and they allow you to bring in your own drinks as you enjoy the atmosphere if the smoke doesn’t bother you. Above all else, I wandered. New Orleans isn’t a place where you can stick to an itinerary, you need to be in the mood and then just do it. This may mean eating at Verti Marte  at 11 p.m. It’s a great little market that you’ll need to remember because most food places don’t stay open late. If you want to wander into a live performance that’s still packed and going strong at 3 a.m., you can do that too.

The only advice I can truly provide is to give in to the indulgence of trying everything and meeting everyone. Strangers become friends, and by the morning you’re air-kissing a vampire goodbye as you air-drop photos to your new doctor friend while promising an accountant you’ll visit them in Australia. The locals here have a saying, “laissez les bon temps rouler” which means “let the good times roll.” This motto is reflected in the city’s pace of life, where people take the time to enjoy the little things. Whether it’s savoring a cup of coffee at a haunted café, strolling Jackson Square park, or simply soaking up the sun on the Mississippi Riverfront, there’s always a way to slow down and take it easy in New Orleans.

When it comes to food, the city has a rich culinary heritage, with a melting pot of influences that includes French, African, Spanish, and Caribbean flavors. From gumbo to jambalaya, po-boys to beignets, you’re sure to find something to make your mouth water.

Here’s a list of highly recommended stands, dives, and restaurants according to locals and frequent visitors:

1. Dakar NOLA – This West African restaurant serves up delicious and authentic dishes that are sure to tantalize your taste buds. Okay, it is expensive, but it’s an absolutely magical dining experience, you have to book in advance and its byob (there’s a wine shop a five-minute walk away)
2. Queen Trini Lisa – For those who love Caribbean cuisine, Queen Trini Lisa is a hidden gem in New Orleans. From jerk chicken to callaloo, this restaurant offers an array of delicious dishes that are sure to transport you to the islands. Get the doubles and get the fried fish sandwich.
3. Tan Dinh and Lilly’s Cafe – If you’re looking for some of the best Vietnamese food in the city, look no further than Tan Dinh and Lilly’s Cafe. From pho to banh mi, these restaurants serve up fresh and flavorful dishes. But also, did you know there’s a big Vietnamese population in New Orleans?
4. Suis Generis – Small spot away from the drinking crowd that offers a new menu weekly based on what’s fresh.
5. Bacchanal Fine Wine and Spirits – Bacchanal is a unique wine shop that also doubles as a live music venue and outdoor dining spot with choose-your-own-adventure charcuterie they custom make and arrange for you. I will note that it’s sometimes hard to find a seat.
6. Napoleon House – Napoleon House is a classic New Orleans institution and offers delicious muffuletta sandwiches and classic New Orleans cocktails.

Finally, New Orleans is a city steeped in history and culture. From the music of jazz legends like Louis Armstrong and Jelly Roll Morton to the vibrant Mardi Gras celebrations, there’s always something to discover, and it doesn’t have to be centered around drinking. My favorite memory was sipping on my King’s Cake Latte as I watched the sunset on Jackson Square and listened as the countless parade of brass bands passed by. Make what you will of the city, but make it yours and take it easy in the Big Easy.